There are 3 different ways to make clothes: Draping, Pattern
Making, or simply buying the pattern from a store and reconstructing the
pattern to your liking. I personally do not like draping. I can do it but I
prefer not to. It looks great for pieces such as gowns with a flowy feel to it.
I rarely make those types of dresses so I wouldn’t call myself a professional.
I learned how to sew from buying patterns so I always have to show an extreme
respect to them. When all is said and done, I LOVE pattern making. This is
easier for me even though it make look extremely difficult. This post is the
beginning of the process of making custom looks by pattern making. This will
teach you what measurements you will need and how to measure them correctly. If
you’ve never liked math or geometry, this process may not be good for you. I
like pattern making the most because you can do soooo many things with pattern
making. So much art can be created in so many different ways. You can also do a
custom outfit better because when you’re draping, you need a mannequin. Most
mannequins are not going to be the exact measurement of you or your client. And
if you do not have the luxury of being able to buy several different
mannequins, there won’t be a problem. You can also create the flowy drape look
with pattern making as well.
Since I spent a
summer in Milan learning how to pattern make, I know how to construct the way
they taught me. I did attend school at American Intercontinental University in
Atlanta (a decision I regret till this day, but that is a completely different
blog post in itself), they taught slim to none pattern making. Since I
pattern-make how the Europeans do, I do everything in centimeters (Don’t judge
me, lol).
If you have a measuring tape with centimeters on it, then
you can write them down as you measure. If you do not, you can always write
down the measurements in inches and multiply the numbers by 2.54 to convert
them into centimeters. I have attached a Word Document for you to print out or
save and use for your personal use.
Of course, for organization and filing purposes, always
write down the clients name. If the client would like their Sizing Chart, make
a copy and give them the copy. Always keep the original copy and file it. The
goal is to keep clients coming back. When they do, you’ll already have their
information. Of course you can re-measure just in case they have lost weight
and make a new Sizing Chart for the client. They usually love to see that they
have lost inches.
Height: Measuring from the top of the head to the floor or
bottom of foot
Bust: Measure around the breast area. Make sure to be in the
middle of the breast
Then measure where the string lies
Hips: Measure around butt area. The largest part of the butt
area, completely around
Back Waist Length: Place measuring tape in the crease of
your neck in the back. Measure down to the waist (where the string lies)
Front Waist Length: Place measuring tape in the same crease
but in the front. Measure down to waist area (where the string lies)
Hip Depth: Place measuring tape on the side at the waist.
Measure down to where the biggest parts of your hips are
Waist to Knee: Place measuring tape at waist and down to the
knee
Waist to Floor: Measure from waist to the floor
Elbow length: Bend the arm. Measure from shoulder to elbow
Sleeve Length: Keep arm bended and measure from shoulder to
wrist
Neck Circumference: Measure around neck
Wrist Circumference: Measure around wrist
Inseam: Measure from crotch to the floor. Sometimes people
are uncomfortable with this part so you can actually have them stand against a
wall; place a ruler in between their legs at the crotch. Make a marking and
then measure from that marking to the floor. I have a picture of both
Crotch Length: This part is actually different then U.S.
Only measure from waist to bottom of crotch
Back Width: Measure the back but starting from under the arm
pits
Shoulder Width: Measure the back but from shoulder to
shoulder
Bust Height: Place measuring tape in the crease of the neck
and measure down to the bust point
Breast Distance: Measure bust point to bust point
Armpit Circumference: Measure around armpit
Bicep Circumference: Measure around biceps
Knee Circumference: Measure around knee
Full Knee Circumference: Have the client stand straight up
and measure around both knees
Thigh Circumference: Measure around thigh
Ankle Circumference: Measure around ankle
If you wrote them in inches, multiply each measurement by
2.54 to get centimeters. You can write down to the first decimal. (ex. 12.1) I put an example sheet of what it could look like. I used my own measurements. Yes, I am a thickum! lol
