Sunday, March 22, 2015

How to Measure #SewSunday


There are 3 different ways to make clothes: Draping, Pattern Making, or simply buying the pattern from a store and reconstructing the pattern to your liking. I personally do not like draping. I can do it but I prefer not to. It looks great for pieces such as gowns with a flowy feel to it. I rarely make those types of dresses so I wouldn’t call myself a professional. I learned how to sew from buying patterns so I always have to show an extreme respect to them. When all is said and done, I LOVE pattern making. This is easier for me even though it make look extremely difficult. This post is the beginning of the process of making custom looks by pattern making. This will teach you what measurements you will need and how to measure them correctly. If you’ve never liked math or geometry, this process may not be good for you. I like pattern making the most because you can do soooo many things with pattern making. So much art can be created in so many different ways. You can also do a custom outfit better because when you’re draping, you need a mannequin. Most mannequins are not going to be the exact measurement of you or your client. And if you do not have the luxury of being able to buy several different mannequins, there won’t be a problem. You can also create the flowy drape look with pattern making as well.

 Since I spent a summer in Milan learning how to pattern make, I know how to construct the way they taught me. I did attend school at American Intercontinental University in Atlanta (a decision I regret till this day, but that is a completely different blog post in itself), they taught slim to none pattern making. Since I pattern-make how the Europeans do, I do everything in centimeters (Don’t judge me, lol).

If you have a measuring tape with centimeters on it, then you can write them down as you measure. If you do not, you can always write down the measurements in inches and multiply the numbers by 2.54 to convert them into centimeters. I have attached a Word Document for you to print out or save and use for your personal use.


Of course, for organization and filing purposes, always write down the clients name. If the client would like their Sizing Chart, make a copy and give them the copy. Always keep the original copy and file it. The goal is to keep clients coming back. When they do, you’ll already have their information. Of course you can re-measure just in case they have lost weight and make a new Sizing Chart for the client. They usually love to see that they have lost inches.

Height: Measuring from the top of the head to the floor or bottom of foot

Bust: Measure around the breast area. Make sure to be in the middle of the breast



 Waist: The waist is the smallest part of the stomach area. If you are new to this, you can take a piece of string (I had a piece of elastic from a previous project laying around so I used that). Wrap the strip around the smallest portion of the waist area and tie. Keep this here as a reference point.

 
Then measure where the string lies

 

Hips: Measure around butt area. The largest part of the butt area, completely around

 

Back Waist Length: Place measuring tape in the crease of your neck in the back. Measure down to the waist (where the string lies)

 

Front Waist Length: Place measuring tape in the same crease but in the front. Measure down to waist area (where the string lies)

 

Hip Depth: Place measuring tape on the side at the waist. Measure down to where the biggest parts of your hips are

 

Waist to Knee: Place measuring tape at waist and down to the knee

 

Waist to Floor: Measure from waist to the floor

 

Elbow length: Bend the arm. Measure from shoulder to elbow

 

Sleeve Length: Keep arm bended and measure from shoulder to wrist

 

Neck Circumference: Measure around neck

 

Wrist Circumference: Measure around wrist

 

Inseam: Measure from crotch to the floor. Sometimes people are uncomfortable with this part so you can actually have them stand against a wall; place a ruler in between their legs at the crotch. Make a marking and then measure from that marking to the floor. I have a picture of both

 

Crotch Length: This part is actually different then U.S. Only measure from waist to bottom of crotch

 

Back Width: Measure the back but starting from under the arm pits

 

Shoulder Width: Measure the back but from shoulder to shoulder

 

Bust Height: Place measuring tape in the crease of the neck and measure down to the bust point

 

Breast Distance: Measure bust point to bust point

 

Armpit Circumference: Measure around armpit

 

Bicep Circumference: Measure around biceps

 

Knee Circumference: Measure around knee

 

Full Knee Circumference: Have the client stand straight up and measure around both knees

 

Thigh Circumference: Measure around thigh


Ankle Circumference: Measure around ankle


 

If you wrote them in inches, multiply each measurement by 2.54 to get centimeters. You can write down to the first decimal. (ex. 12.1) I put an example sheet of what it could look like. I used my own measurements. Yes, I am a thickum! lol
 
 

 The next #SewSunday will be how to use these measurements to draft a pattern.
 
SEE YOU NEXT SUNDAY!

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