How to Measure #SewSunday

There are 3 different ways to make clothes: Draping, Pattern Making, or simply buying the pattern from a store and reconstructing the pattern to your liking. I personally do not like draping. I can do it but I prefer not to. It looks great for pieces such as gowns with a flowy feel to it. I rarely make those types of dresses so I wouldn’t call myself a professional. I learned how to sew from buying patterns so I always have to show an extreme respect to them. When all is said and done, I LOVE pattern making. This is easier for me even though it make look extremely difficult. This post is the beginning of the process of making custom looks by pattern making. This will teach you what measurements you will need and how to measure them correctly. If you’ve never liked math or geometry, this process may not be good for you. I like pattern making the most because you can do soooo many things with pattern making. So much art can be created in so many different ways. You can also do a custom outfit better because when you’re draping, you need a mannequin. Most mannequins are not going to be the exact measurement of you or your client. And if you do not have the luxury of being able to buy several different mannequins, there won’t be a problem. You can also create the flowy drape look with pattern making as well.

 Since I spent a summer in Milan learning how to pattern make, I know how to construct the way they taught me. I did attend school at American Intercontinental University in Atlanta (a decision I regret till this day, but that is a completely different blog post in itself), they taught slim to none pattern making. Since I pattern-make how the Europeans do, I do everything in centimeters (Don’t judge me, lol).

If you have a measuring tape with centimeters on it, then you can write them down as you measure. If you do not, you can always write down the measurements in inches and multiply the numbers by 2.54 to convert them into centimeters. I have attached a Word Document for you to print out or save and use for your personal use.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5oRKO96KOrASHBfQUZMMVFHWnc/view?usp=sharing

Of course, for organization and filing purposes, always write down the clients name. If the client would like their Sizing Chart, make a copy and give them the copy. Always keep the original copy and file it. The goal is to keep clients coming back. When they do, you’ll already have their information. Of course you can re-measure just in case they have lost weight and make a new Sizing Chart for the client. They usually love to see that they have lost inches.

Height: Measuring from the top of the head to the floor or bottom of foot

Bust: Measure around the breast area. Make sure to be in the middle of the breast

 Waist: The waist is the smallest part of the stomach area. If you are new to this, you can take a piece of string (I had a piece of elastic from a previous project laying around so I used that). Wrap the strip around the smallest portion of the waist area and tie. Keep this here as a reference point.

 

Then measure where the string lies

 

Hips: Measure around butt area. The largest part of the butt area, completely around

 

Back Waist Length: Place measuring tape in the crease of your neck in the back. Measure down to the waist (where the string lies)

 

Front Waist Length: Place measuring tape in the same crease but in the front. Measure down to waist area (where the string lies)

 

Hip Depth: Place measuring tape on the side at the waist. Measure down to where the biggest parts of your hips are

 

Waist to Knee: Place measuring tape at waist and down to the knee

 

Waist to Floor: Measure from waist to the floor

 

Elbow length: Bend the arm. Measure from shoulder to elbow

 

Sleeve Length: Keep arm bended and measure from shoulder to wrist

 

Neck Circumference: Measure around neck

 

Wrist Circumference: Measure around wrist

 

Inseam: Measure from crotch to the floor. Sometimes people are uncomfortable with this part so you can actually have them stand against a wall; place a ruler in between their legs at the crotch. Make a marking and then measure from that marking to the floor. I have a picture of both

 

Crotch Length: This part is actually different then U.S. Only measure from waist to bottom of crotch

 

Back Width: Measure the back but starting from under the arm pits

 

Shoulder Width: Measure the back but from shoulder to shoulder

 

Bust Height: Place measuring tape in the crease of the neck and measure down to the bust point

 

Breast Distance: Measure bust point to bust point

 

Armpit Circumference: Measure around armpit

 

Bicep Circumference: Measure around biceps

 

Knee Circumference: Measure around knee

 

Full Knee Circumference: Have the client stand straight up and measure around both knees

 

Thigh Circumference: Measure around thigh

Ankle Circumference: Measure around ankle

 

If you wrote them in inches, multiply each measurement by 2.54 to get centimeters. You can write down to the first decimal. (ex. 12.1) I put an example sheet of what it could look like. I used my own measurements. Yes, I am a thickum! lol

 

 

 The next #SewSunday will be how to use these measurements to draft a pattern.

 

SEE YOU NEXT SUNDAY!

Creating a Clothing Line: Editing Photo Shoot Pictures and Helping your Pockets

Waiting! This is what I hate. But waiting is good sometimes. It gives you a break from the rushing, the running! Right now I’m just trying to get all of the pictures done so that I am able to post them. Unfortunately, I still have to work L so this process might take longer than I want. I was going to give the pictures to this guy that is actually pretty dope. Even though I didn’t give him the pictures, I’m still going to mention his name. I went to school with him, AIU Atlanta, and his name is Reggie. I don’t know his instagram, or if he even has one, but his facebook name is Reginal Boone, D.N.A Elite Designs. The only reason I didn’t give him the pics to edit was simply because of budget… I AM CHEAP! Lol and I already spent a nice little check on the photo shoot, the clothes, and everybody that was involved or helped. One things’ for sure is that I PAY! Anyway, so I’m doing the pictures myself. I actually went on powerpoint, imported all of the pictures on there and took the background out. I then made an extra slide that only had the gray background and put the pictures in the order that I wanted them in. At this point, I was almost finished. There is this website that I used to use in school when we had projects and I wanted my work to look professional. This website is SOOOOO helpful. If you do not want to spend a lot of money and want things done within the same day, use the website Retouchup.com. There are different price ranges for what you want but the turn-around is incredible!! After I placed all pictures how I want them, I submit it to that website so they can do all my final airbrushing to make it look professional. They charge $2.50 a photo. So I went from going to spend $200 to have someone else do it to only $20-$30 if I did it myself. Yes, a big difference! Well that’s all I’m waiting for… Waiting for ME to get all of this done. Haha. And then submit them. I’m going to post an example of one of the pictures because I got one done and submitted it. I’ll post a before and after so you can see the difference of how they look. After that process is done, it’s all about setting up the website and getting ready for your marketing plan!

 

 

The picture above shows a darker picture and also has harsh lines in the middle of the picture in the background. There are also portions within the looks that I couldn't get the background out. Look on the floor in between her legs, you can see portions that I couldn't get out on my own. The last picture on the right also needed touching up. Her legs need to be smoothed out and her back as well.

 

This picture is lightened and fixed everything that I stated above. A good difference!

 

Retouchup.com

 

Thanks to them!

 

Creating a Clothing Line: Photo Shoot

I finally had the photo shoot! I didn’t have it the first week of August like I thought because we had to push it back a little bit. But it happened, none the less. I already showed you the sketches of the full line last time but I'm going to post them again!

 

Like I said in an earlier post, I did 2 lines… All Black Affaire and All White Affaire. We did the shoot on Saturday, April 9, call time at 1pm. Brittany and Freddie (the Make-up artist) came in town Friday night. I wanted to make sure I got the fit just right so the next morning we can put the clothes on and shoot. To my surprise… Almost everything fit!!! I didn’t have to do many alterations except to one dress.  I showed the make-up artist and hair stylist the look that I wanted implemented, we had a few laughs, a few drinks and we were on our way.

 

This is how I wanted the hair to look

 

This is how I wanted the make-up to look

 

The next morning we all met at my house. Everybody except the hair dresser, Phil. I wanted him to meet us at the studio because the humidity in Atlanta is a bit much sometimes. I didn’t want him to do her hair and then it fall or turn into an afro before we even got a chance to shoot. Freddie and Brit went downstairs in my office to do the make-up. I had a few last minute things to do so I was finishing that up. Tagging was all that was left.

On a photo shoot when there are several people involved, sometimes it can be a bit hectic. It works a lot smoother when you're organized, have help, and things written down. You, as the designer and stylist, cannot be everywhere at once. Having things written down help out the people around you. For instance, time is money. Sometimes photo shoots can be charged by the hour. If you are shooting one look, your helpers can be in the back getting the next look ready. As soon as the model comes into the changing room, they can hop out of one look and right into the next one. 

I usually set the looks up in order on the rack. I tie the hangers together with a rubber band and tag them. The tag has the sequence number on the front and the description of everything the look is supposed to be shot with. For example, get an index card and a sharpie. On the front of the index card, I put a number “1” if it is the first look you are going to shoot. On the back, I write down what the full look consists of. “Black top, black shawl, shredded short skirt, leggings, black leather booties, gold bracelet, gold ring, gold chandelier ear rings.” That’s just an example. I posted a picture of what the card would look like and how it looks on the rack.

 

 

This is how I organize a rack

 

This is how I tag them. I write the sequence number on each card and tag each look

 

 

This is how I tag them for my helper to know what to grab. If you have a great amount of jewelry, write specifics on what piece you are talking about

 

 

Now onto the PhotoShoot:

The hair dresser’s name is Phil. You can find him on Instagram with the name of “philbeautiful”. He did a great job on the hair and Freddie (Instagram: FreddieLYoung) did a wonderful job on the make-up. After she was prepped and put into her first look, I let Britt (Instagram: Kick_rox_) do her thing.

The shoot went great! The model was well seasoned and I really didn’t have to say much to get the look that I wanted for the pictures. By the way, always have an idea of what you want the pictures to look like. What I was going for was a picture I saw a LONG TIME AGO that Kim Kardashian did and I still had the screen shots in my phone. I think she did the shoot like 2 years ago. Try to make sure you have a visual of how you want everything so you can tell the model and photographer so that they are able to implement it. This is how I wanted my pictures to look when I post them to my website.

 

I like the way these pictures look because I can have all different views of the same outfit on one shot

(Side view, Back view, Front Views)

I’m also going to post a short video below to get a sneak peak of what the pictures look like. I will post everything else as soon as all of the pictures are done being edited and the website is up. But for now, this is all I can give!

When the shoot was finally over I was SO EXHAUSTED! Making all of this happen is a great deal of work. Writing about it doesn't make it sound like it's a lot but imagine staring from complete scratch and making something completely amazing out of it. It's never an easy thing. We all decided to go out to eat afterwards at Longhorn... Which was GREAT! I love that place! I was so full that when I made it home by 9:30 I went right to sleep till 6 in the morning! I hope this post helps out the organization much better for your shoot! Ugh! The struggle of being organized! haha

 

 

There was so much food on this table after a while we couldn't fit anything on it. We were telling them to slow down with all of these plates! lol Feast fit for a King and Queen!!

 

Good Luck My Loves!

 

Creating A Clothing Line: Final Drawing Sketches

I'm only posting right now to show you all my full line that I am going to shoot. I was supposed to post it a while ago, but you all know it gets pretty hectic in this fashion world! I actually had a hard time designing because I was so diluted with this Atlanta Fashion that I couldn't get away from it. Don't get me wrong, I love Atlanta. I just don't love the fact that people are so influenced by the next person. I'm from up north and it's just such a big difference. You do what you want when it comes to fashion. There are a select few people that have their own style down here and own it but not many. You can walk the streets of New York and you will see SO many different styles and flavor. I love it! I stayed off social networks in order to get these looks! So check them out! Trying to be original...ugh the struggle

Creating a Clothing Line: Start Production Part 1

Yes! I am finally done all of these sketches! I’m not going to show you just yet though. I’m definitely very proud of the line though. It’s different than what I constantly see online with these Atlanta boutiques. So I’m going to give it a try. I already set up the photo shoot, the model, the hair dresser and the Make-up artist. I have this model named Brittany Dorm. She’s very good! I decided to choose her because we came from the same home city. I’m from York, Pennsylvania if you didn’t know J I’m starting out and since I know a lot of people, I want to involve her as well and maybe give her a start.

When starting production make sure to schedule the photo shoot. I like to schedule everything before hand so then I have a deadline. If you don't have a deadline, sometimes you can just keep pushing it off for later dates. Years can go buy and you're still making excuses as to why you can't do it now. Everything is scheduled on the first of August so I will definitely keep you posted. From now until then, I’m going to be stuck in the dungeon sewing my life away! Good luck everybody!

Creating a Clothing Line: Struggling Ideas

So I think I’m done my inspiration board. I say “I think” because sometimes I find new things that inspire me and I add that to the board. Make sure to put the board up where you can see it constantly.

                Now it’s time to design!!! This is the third best part of this whole process. The second best part is making the clothes (or getting the clothing made if you don’t sew); and the best part about the process is seeing your creations being worn! You know I can’t wait for that part.

The only problem I am having is that I have so many different ideas! Ugh!! The struggle is real! I already have a photo shoot scheduled so I definitely need to get on the ball.  

I thought 5 outfits for this mini line would do but I drew down like 20 designs. I also incorporated old designs that didn’t get all the exposure I felt it deserved. So I think I have an idea… I’m going to do 2 lines!

When I tell people the name of my line, sometimes they act like “aw Tasia, why do you always have to be a little freak?” lol but that’s not it at all. Again, I’ve always been known as the party girl so when I googled “party” a synonym for it is “affair.” I thought it would be cool since I always see flyers with “affair” on it anyway. So I’m going to come out with an “All white Affaire” and an “All Black Affaire” Line.  I’m eager to get the outfits out but I need to focus first! I’ve been gone a while doing a lot of custom work behind the scene and I have to come out with a bang. So I’m going to give them one… Here it goes!!!

Here are a few of the designs that I thought of... Don't forget to show me some of your work as well!

Making an Inspiration Board for your Fashion Line

In order for me to get started on my own project, I have to finish the last bit of projects I have going on. When I first moved down here (Atlanta that is, AYE!) I met a guy in school. A gay guy. (I love gay guys!!) OMG me and Sean argued so bad in class because he thought he was the shit! haha. Anyway, we would go back and forth on whose projects were better. After realizing we had a lot in common, we actually became very close. Even though we cuss each other out every chance we get, it’s really only just passion for our craft that does it. The only reason I mention him is because me and him work together. So you'll hear about him much more. I have my clients that come in and he has his. For his clients that he brings me; he'll design, and I'll sew. So my last 3 projects are one coming from him and 2 coming from me. Let me knock them out the way before we REALLY get started

 I'm going to do my line all while I am doing for his clients as well. I hope it's not too much but we'll see. It doesn't hurt to try.

I bought this book about two years ago called "How to Open and Operate a Financially Successful Fashion Design Business" by Janet Engle. It's actually a really good book to read. It helps you every step of the way and also has a CD-Rom that comes with it. She gives you all of the steps. You just have to stick with them. You will learn that I am a bargain shopper. I get it from my dad and I usually don’t like to pay full price for much if I can find it cheaper online. So no, I didn’t pay the full price for this book. I think it’s actually about $60. I only paid $10 on Amazon.com. I mentioned this book because it helped me a lot. All the mistakes I made the first time was also a big help in knowing what NOT to do!

Remember we’re supposed to struggle to the top together?? So let’s struggle!

                First we need to come up with a line which is basically your niche in this market. What you want to do the most. Since I already started my business a while ago and kind of "gave up" on it. I already have a name. It's Affaire Clothing. Affaire, coming from the word "Affair." Not meaning a cheater! Lol, get your mind out of the gutter! But I used to party soooo much. Not as much as I want to anymore, but that might change soon. When I went to think of a name for my company, I just googled the word "party"... and 'affair' came up. You know you always see "All Black Affair" or "Grown and Sexy Affair." Well when I went to buy the name "Affair Clothing" catering to all of the party girls with sexy dresses and jumpsuits, the name had too much going on. So I just added an "E" so there wouldn't be much conflict and purchased that.

Now it's time to get some inspiration.

This could take a long time depending on if you don't already have ideas. Some people don’t get their complete collection just right for months, even years. So keep looking until you are completely inspired. Go to magazines, online forums, and recent trends to get ideas if you are looking for them.

Get a board and take all findings that inspire you and lay them on the board. Don't attach just yet!! Figure out a theme. Whether it's with colors, shapes, buildings, words... WHO CARES! Let it inspire you. It's a process of elimination. When you do start attaching pieces to the board, make sure your board makes sense.

This is our Inspiration Board!

Here are a few examples below